Now reading up on the Photo Memorabilia site on Ektacolor Type B it used a process called B-41 and I read with the early 50s Kodacolor the process was likely similar to B-41 so I suspected this film may have to be skip bleach processed.
PHOTOFLOW RELIGHT ISO
This film has a very low sensitivity rating of 5 ASA in daylight and 8 ASA under tungsten light so I exposed the film around 0.25 or 0.5 ISO for my shots. So back on Christmas night 2016 I sliced up my first sheet (in total darkness) into 3 slices and did two shots of some Christmas house lights and the small slice shot something in the garage. This is very large sheet film which obviously can’t fit into any of my roll film cameras so I decided to cut the film into sizeable slices to fit into my large 116 film cameras. Some months ago I won off Ebay a 10 pack of Kodak Ektacolor Type B 5″ x 7″ (127mm x 178mm) large sized sheet film!
Okay now onto another type of Ektacolor film. So that concludes the 70mm Ektacolor, I am very fortunately to have gotten my hands on that film and I hope another might pop up on Ebay one day so I can buy and go happy filming! I chose various historical and modern subjects to photograph on this over 100 year old film and they all came up looking nice and ultra retro!!! Here below are some photos taken on this antique film and the rest of them can be seen on Flick via this link. The rest of the film sheets I stuck them to a 116 film backing paper and rolled them through my 1920s Kodak Hawkeye taking shots of subjects of interest in Wollongong and up north around Stanwell Park region. So from then on I decided to shoot the rest of the film using f-16 and 15 sec in sunny weather and longer for lower lighting. On scanning the film, turns out the exposure was way too long as the pyramids solarized, it was however a really cool effect I must say! So realizing this film is not that insensitive I decided to do my next shot using f-16 aperture and 15 sec exposure in good sunny weather, my next test shot being Port Kembla Harbour, on developing in the tray once again I saw the image come up nice and as a negative without solarization! I can’t remember the develop time but I simply watch the image form and stop when it looks just right, after I wash and fix the film for 5 min in Ilford Rapid Fixer and wash again. So first thing I had to do was do a test shot with one sheet, so stuck one sheet in my Hawkeye and drove out to the Port Kembla anti-tank pyramids and did my first test exposure using f-11 aperture and exposing for 30 seconds! And in the evening in my garage I developed the sheet of film in a tray of Caffenol C Delta under safe light and was totally amazed to see the image of the pyramids forming on this over 100 year old film!!!
There was one problem however, I don’t have a pack film camera, so I improvised, knowing this film is orthochromatic, I can pull sheets out under red light and stick them inside a sizeable camera so I decided my 1920s Kodak Hawkeye 2A Model B 116 film camera was ideal. Here’s a few links to his 1917 film with the knowledge from others and my success with 30s/40s film I reckon I can get this 1913 expired Premo Film Pack to work.
PHOTOFLOW RELIGHT PLUS
Plus I saw on Flickr someone has shot a vintage 1917 Kodak Non-Curling 120 B&W film and I asked him how much he exposed it and he said 15 seconds at f-16 in sunlight and 30 seconds in lower lighting.
PHOTOFLOW RELIGHT HOW TO
Around that time I knew how to make B&W films of the 1930s and 1940s work by really overexposing them around 1 ISO or less.
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